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Learning to sew is an advancement in one’s life. Whether as a hobby or for business uses, learning to sew can be both educational and fun.
To get started, there are a few items that will be needed. It is usually best to purchases the best available and not try to “skimp” on sewing items and supplies. With this is mind. Let’s begin:
- First, invest in a good pair of shears. Note that shears are not the same item as scissors. Shears are for cutting fabric only. Using shears to cut paper will dull the blades quickly. Shears have a notch in the handle, and the blades are typically at least 5” long. The better quality shears’ blades are joined together by a screw instead of a rivet. This allows for future adjusting and sharpening. Tested and true brands that I myself use include Gingher and Mundial. These companies also offer left-handed models and warranties.
- Secondly, a good pair or two of scissors will be needed. Again, do not skimp. Scissors differ from shears in that they have no notch in the handle. The blades are usually 5” or less. The handles are usually round shaped. These are used to cut paper patterns and trimmings. When cutting fleece or metallic fabrics, use scissors as these fabrics will dull quality shears.
- Thirdly, a seam ripper, or picker as they are often called will be needed. Even experienced stitchers sometimes need to remove stitches. These often are available in a beginner’s kit with a metal thimble and some hand-sewing needles. Often a pair of scissors will be included in the kit.
- Next, tracing paper and a tracing wheel will be needed. Add to that tailor’s chalk and pencils. You will need these to mark fabric with necessary pattern symbols. Keep in mind, though, that often these markings will not wash out of fabrics, especially the yellow. So use caution when marking.
- Now, the item everyone wants the most- a sewing machine. With so many on the market, the decision can be overwhelming. As a beginner, only a basic machine that performs the basic stitches- straight, reverse, and zig-zag will be necessary. Some of the more complex machines can cost upwards of $500.00, but you may not want to invest that much to begin. Singer, Brother, and Janome all offer good beginners sewing machines. A word about buying used machines: buyer beware. Usually, second ownership voids the warranty. Plus, you have no idea how or if the former owner maintained the machine. Try to purchase in person as opposed to online if buying used. Ask the seller to test sew on the machine by sewing a few stitches on a scrap of fabric. Note to self: a dusty, dirty machine has likely not been cared for at all. Just be alert and aware.
- A serger is a machine that finishes the seams and /or edges of fabric all in one operation. These are very nice to own, to get that professional-quality look to garments. These machines are not like sewing machines, and must be operated accordingly. They have no bobbin, and run very fast even with the pressure foot raised. Threading a serger can also be complicated, but many have the instructions inside the machine door. More about sergers (and sewing machines) in the next article.
If you do not wish to invest in a serger just yet, there are several other ways to finish seam edges. Keep in mind that running a sewing machine on zig-zag too much will prematurely wear out the motor.
Choosing interfacings and applying them:
Many beginners fear interfacings, and just do not use them. This is a mistake. After all, you will want a properly constructed and durable garment when finished. It is not as difficult as it may seem to choose and apply interfacings.
Interacings are 2 types ... woven and non-woven. The non-woven type are usually not as useful, as they have no grain and will not hold shape well. Wovens are the better choice. There are 3 weights: light, medium, and heavy. Heavy weights are usually made of hair canvas for tailoring. Sew-in and iron infusibles are available. Sew-in wovens are stitched to the seam edges of the fabric piece barely inside the stitching line so that stitches will not show on the finished garment.
Trim the interfacing seam allowance back near the stitching line so that no excess bulk is in the finished garment. The best sew-in wovens are made of rayon and polyester blends, as these are the most flexible. The least flexible are 100% polyesters.
Pre-shrink wovens when you pre-shrink the fabric.
On to the woven fusibles: these usually remain intact for the garment's life. Always sample with a scrap of the interfacing and the fabric to be used. Fusibles may not be faster than sew-ins if time is not taken to ensure proper application. So, never hurry with fusibles or sew-ins. Fusibles are also more difficult to remove or re-position after applied to the fabric. If a steam iron is not available, a household iron can be used. Place a natural-fabric press cloth over delicate fabrics. This can be any natural-fiber cloth; muslin works well. For fusibles, do not allow seam allowance in the cutting. The edge of the fusible interfacing should not exceed past the stitching line. Most fusibles will not shrink, but you can test them by wetting in water a scrap and patting it dry without wringing. Allow to drip-dry.
On to knits: use fusible knit interfacings. These also allow for gentle drawing of fabrics such as silk, wool, and challis rayons.
Always read and understand all manafacturer's instructions. Refer to this list of tips also. Do not be afraid of interfacings- you can do it!
Curves: cutting and stitching
Cutting and stitching curves can be done in ways that will result in smooth neat seams. Clipping, trimming, and grading seam allowances are the most common methods.
Curves can cause some problems, so let's discuss those:
Cutting curves is necessary for some seams and not for others. If you plan on altering the garment in the future, the seams should not be cut or trimmed too much. If they are, there will not be much room for altering purposes. However, other seams must be trimmed or clipped in order for the finished garment to not be lumpy and wrinkled.
Straight seams can be left untrimmed if the fabric is not bulky or very thin and sheer.
Curved seams that are inward should be clipped close to the stitched line so that they will open when the seam is turned. Be careful to not clip the seam stitching. This will make the seam open to be pressed or ironed. An example is a rounded neckline on a shirt or dress.
For outward seams, clip v- triangular shaped notches close to the stitching line. Again, be careful to not clip the seam stitching.
Trimming seams close to the stitching line to a narrow seam size is another method that some find to be a better method. This trimming should be done to 1/16 of an inch of the seam line. In my opinion, this helps to maintain the strength of the seam.
Grading seam allowances is simply done by trimming the layer of fabric that is against the outside layer of the garment to 1/4", and trimming the layer that is against the facing or lining to 1/8". This greatly reduces bulk.
Facing seams should always be trimmed & graded. This includes collars, cuffs, and edge facings among other seams.
For a right angled point, clip the excess of that corner diagonally on both sides of the point.
After a seam is sewn, it is good practice to press it open before stitching to another piece of fabric. Having the seams bunched-up will result in a lumpy finished edge, a garment that will neither fit nor wear well.
Pressing seams open can help greatly in avoiding such a situation. Small fabric scissors work well for these close and delicate tasks. It is easier to clip and trim with smaller, pointed-tip scissors than with large angled-tip scissors. I do not recommend electric scissors or shears for these tasks.
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